Sliders of Foie Gras Torchon, Persimmons, Tokai Gelée, Black Truffles
A little tongue in cheek fun with a serious preparation we pulled out for New Year’s Eve.
The foie in torchon was a staple at Le Cirque. It was always a preparation Chef Sottha Khunn would do by himself, and I still remember the day he passed the torchon torch on to me. From de-veining, to seasoning, to rolling, to cooking, to re-rolling and storing, there are a lot of ways to screw this up. Thomas Keller’s, indispensable French Laundry Cookbook is an outstanding guide to use, and I’ve adapted a couple of his practices with Le Cirque’s method.
If the veins are not properly removed there will be blood lines running through. Thomas Keller suggest soaking the foie in milk overnight before de-veining, though I skipped this because of time constraits and was very cautious to remove any trace of blood.
To keep it short, bring the foie to room temperature, carefully remove the veins, season and marinate overnight, remove, roll in cloth, refrigerate, remove, poach in chicken stock, shock in an ice bath, reform, and refrigerate…. got it? While cooling, it is very important to continue tightening as any slack will result in air pockets and dis-coloring.
If this makes the cut for an upcoming menu, I will be doing three different preparations on the plate. As part of the tasting menu for New Year’s, we did it as above with the omission of the truffles. The toasted brioche buns are garnished with a preserve of persimmons and the top of the torchon is garnished with a disc of the Tokai gelée (the truffles were done for a VIP last night).
I very much like the fact that a luxurious and labor intensive preparation like this can be picked up by the guests with their hands and eaten in such a simple and familiar medium.